Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon Full Sapphire Watch

Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon Full Sapphire Watch


Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon Full Sapphire Watch Watch Releases


At Baselword 2015, Cabestan showed off its Triple Axis Tourbillon watch. The Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon watch is significant for a number of reasons. It was, and I believe still is, the fastest-rotating triple-axis tourbillon watch in existence. Plus, it was the first watch that was designed from the ground up by Cabestan’s master watchmaker Eric Coudray. As you can see from our hands-on of the original Triple Axis Tourbillon watch, it is a beast of a watch, with many interesting little details and a completely mesmerizing triple-axis tourbillon. For 2017, Cabestan is back with the Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon Full Sapphire watch, a new version that features a full sapphire case.

Watches with full sapphire cases are something of a trend these days. Hublot, for example, has put out a couple of all sapphire watches in the past year or so. There’s the Big Bang Unico Sapphire watch, the MP-05 LaFerrari Sapphire watch, and of course, the newest Big Bang UNICO Magic Sapphire watch that was also just announced for 2017.


Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon Full Sapphire Watch Watch Releases


Sapphire is an interesting choice for a case material with an equal share of advantages and disadvantages. As we all know, sapphire is incredibly tough and scratch-resistant, which means a watch with a sapphire case is unlikely to show the usual signs of wear like nicks and scratches. Plus, it is transparent, and that means owners will be afforded a full view of the movement within, which is always welcome. On the flip side, sapphire makes the watch very heavy, but perhaps more importantly, sapphire can crack if subjected to a hard enough knock. “You cannot have your cake and eat it too,” it would seem.


Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon Full Sapphire Watch Watch Releases


The new Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon Full Sapphire watch makes a strong argument for the benefit of an all-sapphire construction because of its wonderfully complex Caliber CAB0017 movement. The sapphire case allows owners to admire the movement from all angles, and there is indeed a lot to see. First of all, the triple axis tourbillon spins at a very rapid rate. The quickest axis completes a revolution in just 17 seconds, while the second quickest takes 19 seconds. The slowest axis takes 60 seconds to complete a revolution. Without videos to show you, suffice it to say that it is a highly animated movement. And at any given moment you might glance at it, it always seems like there is something happening.


Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon Full Sapphire Watch Watch Releases


Even without the tourbillon, the Caliber CAB0017 is a visually arresting movement. It consists of 978 components and is expertly finished by hand. And we haven’t even got to its chain-and-fusée constant force mechanism, a hallmark of Cabestan, which consists of over 350 links and 234 rivets. The sapphire case allows a full view of the movement within, and clearly, there are a whole lot of things to look at.


Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon Full Sapphire Watch Watch Releases


According to Cabestan, the team took over 2,000 hours of work to realize this piece, and from first impressions, at least, it looks like it was all worth it. A movement as technically complex and visually interesting as the Caliber CAB0017 shouldn’t be kept obscured, so an all-sapphire case makes sense. The Cabestan Triple Axis Tourbillon Full Sapphire watch will be limited to just 50 pieces and it is priced at 265,000 CHF. cabestan.ch

Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m Watch

Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m Watch


Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m Watch Watch Releases


At Baselworld 2017, Citizen watches of Japan will release what is the most durable dive watch I’ve ever personally known them to produce in the Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m timepiece. Citizen also makes the claim that it is the most water-resistant dive watch (and first 1000-meter Eco-Drive) that is light powered, allowing it to go deep within the ocean where no natural light exists to power the movement – a minor irony. Fans of Japanese tool watches will delight, though this professional-themed diving tool watch comes at a not-insignificant price.


Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m Watch Watch Releases


The Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m (reference BN7020-09E) has indeed been developed as a professional diving timepiece. As a saturation diver, this Citizen Promaster is designed to survive long periods of time in decompression chambers and also contains an automatic helium release valve on the side of the case near 10 o’clock. The accumulated features in the Citizen Promaster BN7020-09E are designed to make the watch both durable, safe, and wear-resistant.

There are at least two innovations in the Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m that the brand is proud of. First is a new twist-to-lock mechanism for the rotating diver’s bezel. This comes in the form of an extremely visible ring around the bezel which twists to lock or release the ability to rotate the 60-minute diver’s style rotating timing bezel. When the bezel is unlocked or the crown unscrewed, the user can see orange-colored sections which are an “unsafe” warning.


Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m Watch Watch Releases


Another innovation is in the luminant. I don’t believe the luminous material itself is new, but Citizen paints a very generous portion of it on the hands and hour markers of the watch and claims that the Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m has “2.2 times the afterglow brightness than a conventional paint even after 5 hours.” This is possible, of course, given the traditionally huge hour markers and hands that many Citizen Promaster dive watch have had over the years. From a design perspective, fans of Citizen Promaster marine collection watches can see the familiar look of the watch despite the design evolution of the Citizen Promaster BN7020-09E compared to others that Citizen has made or continues to make.

One new design feature is the “saw blade”-style design of the bezel, which is designed that way in order to be very easily turned even while someone is diving (or otherwise) with thick gloves. Citizen reports that they worked closely with JAMSTEC in Japan, which is a national agency related to diving. This apparently helped them research the design and functionality of the Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m in real-world environments.


Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m Watch Watch Releases


As premium-priced Citizen watch, the BN7020-09E has a lot of quality materials, but it is still sized and designed like a serious dive watch. The Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m case is a large 52.5mm wide and 21.4mm thick. It will wear smaller, though, given the lugless design and fact that the case will appear to sit a bit high on the wrist. Assuming you are wearing the watch over a diving suit it might not feel as large – though, in all likelihood, most of these watches will spend most of their time on bare wrists. The case is primarily titanium with an AR-coated sapphire crystal over the bezel.

Citizen offers their better titanium for this watch, as the case is made of Super Titanium. That means it is both given the Duratect MRK surface-hardening treatment, along with a DLC-coating for scratch-resistance. Attached to the case is a soft, black polyurethane dive-style strap. Of course, the case is also water-resistant to 1000 meters.


Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m Watch Watch Releases


Inside the Citizen BN7020-09E is the Citizen in-house-made caliber J210 Eco-Drive quartz movement. Powered by light, the movement can run for 2.5 years when it is fully charged. The dial offers the time, date, and a power reserve indicator. The movement’s non-removable battery is recharged as light enters through the dial to a photovoltaic cell located underneath it.

Currently, the closest thing to the Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m in Citizen’s collection sold in the USA is the Citizen Promaster Aqualand Depth Meter (aBlogtoWatch review here) that costs about $950. The Citizen Promaster BN7020-09E is a very different watch with fancier materials, but more than double the price. This is likely a fair price but still a lot given what most consumers are used to paying for Japanese timepieces which are typically appreciated for their value-proposition against European watches. With that said, aBlogtoWatch has probably been part of the reason more people are interested in higher-end Japanese watches.


Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m Watch Watch Releases


In Japan, Citizen currently sells a rather similar model that the new BN7020-09E is an upgrade of. The two are very similar though the Professional has a titanium case and more water-resistance. That previous model is the steel-cased, 300m water-resistant Citizen Promaster BN0176-08E and BN0177-05E watches which are priced at around $900 (100,000 yen). At $2,300 USD, the new BN7020-09E Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1000m tops the collection and is going to easily be the most interest for serious Japanese tool watch enthusiasts. Availability is said to begin in Summer, 2017. citizenwatch.com